Power and Prestige

Woman’s tubular cloth

Ivory Coast; Dida peoples

Late 20^th century 

Raffia, dye

Collection of Barbara and Bill McCann

 

This week we discussed the ways that textiles and garments communicate power and prestige. Historically, tubular raffia cloths produced by the Dida peoples of Côte d’Ivoire were symbols of wealth and social status. Due to the time consuming process of weaving these garments, the women that produced them often had to be supported by affluent families. Today, tubular raffia cloths are worn as indicators of family wealth and expressions of Dida identity.

The Kuba peoples of the Democratic Republic of Congo create embroidered cut-pile cloths that were used traditionally only by nobility and often in conjunction with funerary rites. The high level of skill required to create the diverse and innovative geometric designs on these cloths adds to their value and underpins their role as prestige symbols.

Cut-pile cloth

Democratic Republic of Congo; Kuba peoples
20th century

Raffia, dye
Collection of Barbara and Bill McCann

 

In Nigeria, many men wear elaborate embroidered gowns (called riga among the Hausa) to express authority and status. These ideas are communicated through the layering of multiple gowns, the intricacy of embroidery, and the quality of cloth. 

 

Riga (man’s gown)

Nigeria, Kano; Hausa peoples

Mid 20^th century

Cotton

Collection of Barbara and Bill McCann

Yoruba women in Nigeria produce and wear indigo-dyed cloth called adire. Due to the high cost of materials and long production times, indigo cloths are prized garments often worn at public events. Production began to wane in the 1990s; however, Nike Davies Okundaye is preserving this form by training a new generation of artists in its production at the Nike Centre for Art and Culture. For more information on this project visit www.nikeart.com

Adire eleko cloth

Nigeria, Ibadan; Yoruba peoples

Mid to late 20^th century

Cotton, natural dye

Collection of Barbara and Bill McCann

As cultures grow and change, in what ways do expressions of power and prestige persist?  How are these ideas communicated through cloth in your community?